| Here are some of the most frequently asked questions on Designer's PLUS Floor products. |
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| Q: How should FINfloor be cleaned? How do I remove persistent stains? |
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| Clean the laminated flooring with a vacuum cleaner or with a dry mop. And if it is necessary use a wiping cloth an a synthetic detergent. Avoid the use of water in excess.
To remove persistent stains, you only have to apply a bit of domestic-use alcohol and then rub sofltly.
It is recommended to place a doormat in the main entrance to protect the flooring from sand and external dirt. |
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| Q: Why is laminate flooring more resistant to abrassion than any other wooden floors? |
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Laminate flooring, contrary to varnished floorings, is protected and finished by means of a paper called overlay. This paper is made of Aluminium Oxide (corundum) particles. This is one of the heaviest and most resistant metals after Diamond, what protects laminate flooring from wearing.
This protective layer gives a high-resistance finish that no varnish used in wood floors can get.
Also, it assures us that a cigarette burn is not going to leave a stain on the laminate flooring. No varinish can support an attack of this kind. |
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| Q: All the surface of the flooring is curved? What has happened? Can it be fixed? |
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| It is likely that the flooring has been exposed to a high level of humidity or that the peripheral or the expansion joints have not been respected. When the product expands due to environmental changes, this causes that it doesn't have room so it collides with the walls or with any obstacle causing the curving of the installation. In case we see that the flooring begins to curve, we must remove the skirting and cut out all the perimeter in contact with the walls. This must be made as soon as possible to avoid the aggravation of the problem. In those cases where the curving is very noticeable, we must not walk or place weights on it because it would favour the breaking or the weakening of the plank union system. As a consequence, gaps between the planks can appear or even the planks can separate. Another cause of curving is having fixed elements to FINfloor, as it is the case of screens, separating pieces etc. Laminate flooring is a floating surface and as so, it cannot have any keying elements that prevents it from normally expanding/contracting. |
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| Q: Does FINfloor laminate flooring issue formaldehyde? Is it harmful for your health? |
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| HDF floorings contain formaldehyde resins among other components.
The flooring manufactured by FINSA is always E1(<= 8mg/100 g. of dry board) accoring to European regulation EN 120, that is, it has a low formaldehyde content.
This levels are comparable to the emission levels of natural wood. Any of the ranges of laminate flooring is therefore adecuate for being used, without any problem, in sensitive areas such as classrooms and kindergartens. |
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| Q: What can it happen if I install laminate flooring in galleries, shop windows, covered and glassed-in balconies, etc.? |
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In an installation of this kind we must be careful because the flooring has to stand especial circumstances.
The places of this kind are normally extremely damp and are exposed to abrupt temperature changes. It is quite usual that the sunlight acts directly on the laminate through the window and that causes that the flooring surface gets a quite high temperature. If we add to this that the ground is normally quite cold, the flooring has to stand abrupt temperature changes.
Those days when the sun shines, it may be very hot during the day and then very quickly the temperature decrease very sharply at night. This reduction and expansion may damage the profiles and make the planks separate in their short sides.
Because the laminate flooring is in direct contact with the ground, it may be a big difference in the temperature of both sides of the board, the upper side with higher temperature than the lower side in direct contact with the ground.
If laminate flooring has to be installed in any of the abovementioned places, maybe the conditions of the installation can be improved if we place on the sub-flooring:
- Firstly, a 0,2 mm polythene steam barrier.
- Over this barrier, a thick heat insulator layer > 6 mm (cork, low density board, polypropene, etc.)
- We recommend that the product acclimatizes in the place where it is going to be installed, prior to its installation.
- During installation, we will apply an adhesive (Glue D3) in the transverse joints and this way we will strengthen the joint of the short sides of the boards, that will be placed separated from the others (adjoining) always 1/3. |
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| Q: Why I choose Designer's floor to install it in my place? |
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| When you are going to buy a laminate flooring, always choose a premium Quality covering, assembled on a first Quality particle board (HDF: High Density Fiber) and that offers a high resistance to humidity. Also, the join system must be consistent and put up a high resistance to separation. The laminated flooring gives you the last and most advanced technical novelties, apart from having perfect finishes, that don't have any deformity, neither a minimum colour variation. All this is controlled in any of the ranges of Designer's floor. |
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| Q: What is laminate flooring made of? |
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Designer's floor is a laminate flooring manufactured according to European standards (EN 13329 regulation) and having the CE label according to EN 14041 regulation.
- Designer's floor laminate flooring is made of a high density (HDF) fiber board, according to EN 316 regulation.
- The upper layer is made of a decorative paper impregnated in amino-plastic resins. This decorative paper is a perfect imitation of the different wood types and decors.
- The most superficial layer is made of a cellulose film with Aluminium Oxide or Corundum particles called OVERLAY.
This premium quality Overlay gives FINfloor a surface resistance to wearing, impact, scratching, staining, cigarette burns, etc., a resistance than a few products can get. It meets all the requirements of EN 13329 regulation.
- The bottom layer is also a melamine paper called Kraft, and it acts as a counterbalance and as an insulator. |
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| Q: Placing of the skirting |
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| When we are going to place the skirting, we must take into account in order that the joining of the planks is perfect, that the angle cuts are the most precise as possible. Also it is advisable to fill in the join (angle cut) with some silicone or putty in a colour similar to that of the skirting.
When we join the two pieces of skirting, the spare product (putty-silicone) we have applied, will come out to the surface, and we will remove it with our finger or with a damp cloth. Thanks to that we will get a perfectly-sealed joining and that the join between the pieces won't be noticeable. To fix the skirting to the wall we will use small screws without head and we will apply a bit of silicone to assure the keying of the skirting to the wall (Silicones mustn't be acetic because the solvents used make the paper covering the skirting unglue). There are in the market a kind of glues or silicones called " assembly glues" that substitute the screws and offer an extra drying and a very strong keying to the wall. |
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| Q: In a horizontal 9-mm installation, should I use a expansion profile? |
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| It is strongly recommended but if you don't want to use it, there is no problem as long as 10 mm are left as expansion joint (even more if the skirting makes it possible). It is also recommended to check if the drying of the ground is correct and that the humidity is not very high in order not to use this intermediate expansion joint. If we didn't have these factors under control, we could have an excess of expansion that together with the excess of square meters in continuous installation (without any joint) would cause lifting, curving, etc. |
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| Q: How can I decide in which direction I have to install the laminate flooring? |
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| To install laminate flooring it is important to take into account the main source of light (window, door...). It can be installed parallel to the way in which the light enters into the room. We must also take as a reference that the wall from where we are starting the installation is the longest and straightest as possible (to avoid any out-of-true installation ). |
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| Q: How to fit the first pieces in a crooked wall? |
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 Sometimes it is necessary to cut the first row of planks to shape them in the way of a crooked wall.
Once we have installed the first three rows of planks we will bring this set to the walls. We must be sure that the 10-mm expansion joints are respected all along the perimeter. Once we have laid the flooring on its whole, we will cut a board into a little piece (1st picture) with a hole 5 cms far from the edge (the distance will depend on the depth of the irregularity of the wall)
We will use this piece to pass it along the wall with a pencil in the hole to mark the first row of boards. Once the pieces are marked, we will remove the first row of pieces to cut and give shape to the planks.
When they are cut, we will lay them in the same position and we will approach the flooring on its whole to the wall, always leaving 10 mm as a expansion joint. This procedure is valid for the possible irregularities of the wall in the last row.
If the irregularities are smaller than 10 mm:
We must lay the planks of the last row, but initially approaching them to the wall without taking into account the 10-mm expansion joint.
To mark the irregularities of the wall in the planks, we will cut a piece (see 1st picture) with a hole 10mm far from the edge.
Once all the planks are marked, we will remove them one by one and we will cut them
This procedure is valid and equal for the possible irregularities that a wall may
have in the last row.
If these irregularities are of less than 10 mm:
We must install all the planks of the last row, but approaching them to wall considering the 10 mm corresponding to the expansion joint. To mark the irregularities of the wall on the planks, we will make a piece (see picture 1) with a hole 10 mm far from the edge.
Once the planks have been marked, we will remove them one by one and we will cut them all along the line. Each plank has to be fitted in the same position as before.
All this process will result in a 10-mm expansion joint.
If the irregularities are bigger than 10 mm:
In this case, the planks have to be placed (without being fitted) on the last installed row.
We will make a piece (see picture 1) with a hole that depending on the irregularities of the wall will be less far or farther from the edge.
Once the planks have been marked, we will remove them one by one and we will cut them all along the line. Each plank has to be fitted in the same position as before.
All this process will result in a 10-mm expansion joint all along the wall. |
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| Q: After how many lineal metres is it necessary to add intermediate expansion joints? |
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| According to the recommendations, 5 lineal metres should not be exceeded vertically (the short side of the planks of FINfloor), neither 8 metres horizontally (long side of the pieces of FINfloor). If these recommended dimensions are exceeded in the installations, intermediate expansion joints should be placed. Also, it is necessary to place intermediate joints in the door passages. In rooms with an L, T, U shape, or similar, we can also place joints to to facitilate the expansion of the product.
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| Q: Can a big surface be installed without any intermediate expansion joints? |
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| If the laminate flooring is installed on a surface exceeding 5 or 8 mm. depending on the orientation of the installation and if no expansion joint is placed, one of the basic regulations in the instructions of the laying of the product will be not fulfilled and that will invalidate the warranty. The 10-mm expansion joint must be left all along the perimeter of the installation (and around any obstacle as columns, heating pipes, etc.). It is enough for a place not bigger than 8 m (installation direction in the long side of the piece) x 5 (installation direction in the short side of the piece). If the surface to lay is bigger, the peripheral 10-mm expansion joint is not enought and an intermediate one must be added. To substitute the intermediate expansion joint in the perimeter (plus 10mm) is not recommenede and may not fulfill the desired function.
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| Q: How are the Expansion, Transition, End and Stair profiles attached? |
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| One of the main aspects in the installation of a floating laminate flooring is the attatchment of the different accesories so that the installation meets all the requirements recommended by the manufacturer. Attatching an expansion or any other profile is very easy. These accesories have a plastic rail we must fix to the ground by means of screws. This must be the first step before starting to install the flooring. Once the plastic rails are fixed and clasped in the corresponding place (door passages, rooms exceeding the recommended dimensions, etc.) we will proceed to the installation of the laminate flooring. When we reach the base, we must take into account that when we cut this last piece it has to be 10 mm different form the plastic rail, which will be used as a expansion joint in the flooring. If the installation continues, we must remove the following piece, also10-mm separated from the plastic rail, essential for the expansion joint. As a final step, before placing the top piece we must put some points of adhesive inside the base plastic rail, so that when we install the top pieces, they keep fixed to the plastic rail. These top pieces will hide these expansion joints and will give our installation the last touch.
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| Q: How can the pieces next to the door frame be installed? |
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| With the help of a piece of a laminate flooring plank and underdlay (as a guide to measure the thickness) we will cut the door frame in its lower part.
Once the frame and the piece to lay have been cut, we will put this piece under the frame to fit it horizontally by pressure. We will do it using our Designer's floor installation kit (never hit the heads directly). |
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| Q: How is the last row installed? |
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To install the last row, we will take the distance between the wall and the last installed row. We will substract from this measure (the width of the board) 10mm correspondint to the essential expansion joint. The first piece is placed locking the long side in the normal way (in angle)
Then, the long side is locked into the following piece, leaving the short sides of this piece and the former close to each other. Regarding the locking of the short side, they are locked by pressure, hitting very gently the hear of the board (never hit the boards directly).
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| Q: Is it necessary to leave expansion joints in the door pasages? |
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Expansion joints must be obligatory used to separate the different rooms and also the joints with other kind of coverings.
These expansion joints to leave in the door passages between the different rooms carry out an important double function:
- To assure an optical flow more natural than design.
- Laminate flooring is made of wood fibers. These are an "alive" element so they cause dimensional variations in the product, depending on the environmental conditions of the different rooms.
Each room has a different temperature and humidity level.
By means of the expansion joints in the door passages, we assure the creation of "hermetic" compartments, avoiding that contractions and expansions in adjoining rooms affect. |
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| Q: Can any of the ranges of Designer's floor be sanded, polished or varnished? |
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| Laminate flooring CANNOT be sanded, polished, varnished, etc, because that would damage the intrinsic properties of the product. The surface of FINfloor Quattro is protected to give it a long life and a high resistance to wearing. It is a finish product and it is no necessary to do any futher work on it, except for installing it. It is not necessary - and it is not possible either- to varnish or polish it.
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| Q: Is Designer's floor Laminate Flooring hygenic? |
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| Designer's floor Plus laminate flooring is very hygenic thanks to its excellent surface sealing. The external layer of the laminate, made of a very resistant material (melamine resin), avoids dirt and bacteria getting into the laminate. Also, the laminate flooring is extremely resistant. You can drop a cigarette on it without even damaging the surface. High resistance to wearing is one of the main reasons that makes it a very common solucion not only for domestic but also for commercial uses.
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| Q: How can scratches on the surface of the flooring be fixed? |
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| Laminate Flooring gives higher resistance to scratches than any other varnished flooring. But it doesn't mean that it doesn't get scratched. The best way to fix these is trying to avoid the scratches on the surface.
To avoid this happening we will put felts in the legs of chairs, tables and pieces of furniture, etc. If we have castor chairs, their wheels must be W-type (in accordance with German Rule DIN 68131) or in their absence we will place a a polycarbonate mat to avoid them to be in direct contact with the flooring. It is also recommended to use a doormat in the main entrance to protect the flooring against sand.
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| Q: Where can I install the different ranges of Designer's floor? |
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| Designer's floor is a very verstatile flooring and it can be installed in any of the rooms of your home, business, etc. except for those where there is a high level of humidity, such as, bathrooms, saunas, sinks, washing areas, where its installation is not recommended. In restorations, where Designer's floor is going to be installed on old pavings, it should be taken into account the section called preparation of the floor in the prospectus attatched to the boxes of flooring.
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| Q: Can Designer's floor laminate flooring and any other kind of covering (vinyl, ceramic, tiles, etc.) be installed in the same room? |
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| Yes, they can.
If different products are going to be installed, beware of the possible different thickness of these products. It is necessary to take this into account when laying the balance layer on the base ground so that the sum of the paving and the different coverings is equal to a surface where all the products are at the same level (without any difference in height).
A expansion profile should be used between the different coverings because each of these has a different level of expansion. |
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| Q: How can I decide in which direction I have to lay Designer's floor laminate flooring? |
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| To lay Designer's floor laminate flooring, it should be taken into account the main source of light (window, door).
It is advisable to install it paralel to the direction in which the light enters into the rooms. We must also take as a reference that the wall from where we are starting the installation is the longest and straightest as possible to avoid any out-of-true installation.
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| Q: What are the stains that might appear inside the box? |
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| These oil-like stains are caused by the paraffin used for sealing the edges of the planks. The cardboard used for the packaging is porous and tends to absorbe some of this paraffin, which gives the box an oil-impregnated or oil-stained looking. This oil-stained looking is not a problem. It proves that the product is perfectly protected with paraffin.
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| Q: What kind of laminate flooring should I use depending on the use I am going to make of it? |
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Firstly, it has to be considered the place where the laminate flooring is going to be installed (bedrooms, corridors, etc.)
EN-685 regulation sets the parametres to meet this class of use. According to the load and traffic,
CLASSES OF USE OF LAMINATE FLOORING
CLASS 21: Moderate uses, in households (guest rooms, bedrooms, etc.)
CLASS 22 Normal uses in households (corridors, bedrooms, sitting-rooms, etc. )
CLASS 23: Heavy uses in households (corridors, little offices, halls, etc. )
CLASS 31: Moderate uses in industrial and public areas (lecture halls, hotel rooms, offices, etc.)
CLASS 32: Normal uses in industrial and public areas (shops, offices, wating rooms, boutiques, etc.)
CLASS 33: Heavy uses in industrial and public areas (medical centres, shopping centres, discos, etc. ) |
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