| Here are some of the most frequently asked questions on FINfloor products. |
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| Q: All the surface of the flooring is curved? What has happened? Can it be fixed? |
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It is likely that the flooring has been exposed to a high level of humidity or that the peripheral or the expansion joints have not been respected.
When the product expands due to environmental changes, this causes that it doesn't have room so it collides with the walls or with any obstacle causing the curving of the installation.
In case we see that the flooring begins to curve, we must remove the skirting and cut out all the perimeter in contact with the walls. This must be made as soon as possible to avoid the aggravation of the problem. In those cases where the curving is very noticeable, we must not walk or place weights on it because it would favour the breaking or the weakening of the plank union system.
As a consequence, gaps between the planks can appear or even the planks can separate.
Another cause of curving is having fixed elements to FINfloor, as it is the case of screens, separating pieces etc. Laminate flooring is a floating surface and as so, it cannot have any keying elements that prevents it from normally expanding/ contracting. |
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| Q: Can a big surface be installed without any intermediate expansion joints? |
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A: If the laminate flooring is installed on a surface exceeding 5 or 8 mm. depending on the orientation of the installation and if no expansion joint is placed, one of the basic regulations in the instructions of the laying of the product will be not fulfilled and that will invalidate the warranty.
The 10-mm expansion joint must be left all along the perimeter of the installation (and around any obstacle as columns, heating pipes, etc.). It is enough for a place not bigger than 8 m (installation direction in the long side of the piece) x 5 (installation direction in the short side of the piece). If the surface to lay is bigger, the peripheral 10-mm expansion joint is not enought and an intermediate one must be added.
To substitute the intermediate expansion joint in the perimeter (plus 10mm) is not recommenede and may not fulfill the desired function. |
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| Q: Can any of the ranges of FINfloor Quattro be sanded, polished or varnished? |
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Laminate flooring CANNOT be sanded, polished, varnished, etc, because that would damage the intrinsic properties of the product.
The surface of FINfloor Quattro is protected to give it a long life and a high resistance to wearing.
It is a finish product and it is no necessary to do any futher work on it, except for installing it.
It is not necessary - and it is not possible either- to varnish or polish it. |
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| Q: Can FINfloor laminate flooring and any other kind of covering (vinyl, ceramic, tiles, etc.) be installed in the same room? |
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Yes, they can.
If different products are going to be installed, beware of the possible different thickness of these products. It is necessary to take this into account when laying the balance layer on the base ground so that the sum of the paving and the different coverings is equal to a surface where all the products are at the same level (without any difference in height).
A expansion profile should be used between the different coverings because each of these has a different level of expansion. |
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| Q: Can laminate flooring be installed on carpets, rugs? |
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According to the instructions given by the manufacturer, carpets, rugs or any other coverings of a textile base, are not a good base to place laminate flooring on it.
So, the laying of laminate flooring on this type of coverings is not possible.
It is recommended to remove this kind of coverings prior to the installation of the laminate flooring. |
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The layer that makes the textile compound is very flexible and not hard.
A installation of laminate flooring can suffer from big loads and efforts. If the support flooring is irregular and not hard, the joints between the planks tend to suffer a lot, going out of shape and even breaking. |
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| Q: Does FINfloor laminate flooring issue formaldehyde? Is it harmful for your health? |
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| HDF floorings contain formaldehyde resins among other components.
The flooring manufactured by FINSA is always E1(<= 8mg/100 g. of dry board) accoring to European regulation EN 120, that is, it has a low formaldehyde content.
This levels are comparable to the emission levels of natural wood.
Any of the ranges of FINfloor laminate flooring is therefore adecuate for being used, without any problem, in sensitive areas such as classrooms and kindergartens. |
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| Q: How are the Expansion, Transition, End and Stair profiles attached? |
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One of the main aspects in the installation of a floating laminate flooring is the attatchment of the different accesories so that the installation meets all the requirements recommended by the manufacturer. Attatching an expansion or any other profile is very easy.
These accesories have a plastic rail we must fix to the ground by means of screws. This must be the first step before starting to install the flooring.
Once the plastic rails are fixed and clasped in the corresponding place (door passages, rooms exceeding the recommended dimensions, etc.) we will proceed to the installation of the laminate flooring.
When we reach the base, we must take into account that when we cut this last piece it has to be 10 mm different form the plastic rail, which will be used as a expansion joint in the flooring.
If the installation continues, we must remove the following piece, also10-mm separated from the plastic rail, essential for the expansion joint.
As a final step, before placing the top piece we must put some points of adhesive inside the base plastic rail, so that when we install the top pieces, they keep fixed to the plastic rail.
These top pieces will hide these expansion joints and will give our installation the last touch. |
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| Q: How can I decide in which direction I have to lay FINfloor laminate flooring? |
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To lay FINfloor laminate flooring, it should be taken into account the main source of light (window, door).
It is advisable to install it paralel to the direction in which the light enters into the rooms.
We must also take as a reference that the wall from where we are starting the installation is the longest and straightest as possible to avoid any out-of-true installation. |
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| Q: How can scratches on the surface of the flooring be fixed? |
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| Laminate Flooring gives higher resistance to scratches than any other varnished flooring. But it doesn't mean that it doesn't get scratched.
The best way to fix these is trying to avoid the scratches on the surface.
To avoid this happening we will put felts in the legs of chairs, tables and pieces of furniture, etc. If we have castor chairs, their wheels must be W-type (in accordance with German Rule DIN 68131) or in their absence we will place a a polycarbonate mat to avoid them to be in direct contact with the flooring.
It is also recommended to use a doormat in the main entrance to protect the flooring against sand. |
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| Q: How can the pieces next to the door frame be installed? |
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| With the help of a piece of a laminate flooring plank and underdlay ( as a guide to measure the thickness) we will cut the door frame in its lower part.
Once the frame and the piece to lay have been cut, we will put this piece under the frame to fit it horizontally by pressure. We will do it using our FINfloor installation kit (never hit the heads directly). |
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| Q: How is the last row installed? |
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| To install the last row, we will take the distance between the wall and the last installed row. We will substract from this measure (the width of the board) 10mm correspondint to the essential expansion joint.
The first piece is placed locking the long side in the normal way (in angle)
Then, the long side is locked into the following piece, leaving the short sides of this piece and the former close to each other. Regarding the locking of the short side, they are locked by pressure, hitting very gently the hear of the board (never hit the boards directly). |
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| Q: How should FINfloor be cleaned? How do I remove persistent stains? |
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| Clean FINfloor with a vacuum cleaner or with a dry mop. And if it is necessary use a wiping cloth an a synthetic detergent. Avoid the use of water in excess.
To remove persistent stains, you only have to apply a bit of domestic-use alcohol and then rub sofltly.
It is recommended to place a doormat in the main entrance to protect the flooring from sand and external dirt. |
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| Q: How to fit the first pieces in a crooked wall? |
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Sometimes it is necessary to cut the first row of planks to shape them in the way of a crooked wall.
Once we have installed the first three rows of planks we will bring this set to the walls. We must be sure that the 10-mm expansion joints are respected all along the perimeter.
Once we have laid the flooring on its whole, we will cut a board into a little piece (1st picture) with a hole 5 cms far from the edge (the distance will depend on the depth of the irregularity of the wall)
We will use this piece to pass it along the wall with a pencil in the hole to mark the first row of boards.
Once the pieces are marked, we will remove the first row of pieces to cut and give shape to the planks.
When they are cut, we will lay them in the same position and we will approach the flooring on its whole to the wall, always leaving 10 mm as a expansion joint.
This procedure is valid for the possible irregularities of the wall in the last row.
If the irregularities are smaller than 10 mm:
We must lay the planks of the last row, but initially approaching them to the wall without taking into account the 10-mm expansion joint.
To mark the irregularities of the wall in the planks, we will cut a piece (see 1st picture) with a hole 10mm far from the edge.
Once all the planks are marked, we will remove them one by one and we will cut them
This procedure is valid and equal for the possible irregularities that a wall may have in the last row.
If these irregularities are of less than 10 mm:
We must install all the planks of the last row, but approaching them to wall considering the 10 mm corresponding to the expansion joint. To mark the irregularities of the wall on the planks, we will make a piece (see picture 1) with a hole 10 mm far from the edge.
Once the planks have been marked, we will remove them one by one and we will cut them all along the line. Each plank has to be fitted in the same position as before. All this process will result in a 10-mm expansion joint.
If the irregularities are bigger than 10 mm:
In this case, the planks have to be placed (without being fitted) on the last installed row.
We will make a piece (see picture 1) with a hole that depending on the irregularities of the wall will be less far or farther from the edge.
Once the planks have been marked, we will remove them one by one and we will cut them all along the line. Each plank has to be fitted in the same position as before.
All this process will result in a 10-mm expansion joint all along the wall. |
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| Q: In a horizontal 9-mm installation, should I use a expansion profile? |
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It is strongly recommended but if you don't want to use it, there is no problem as long as 10 mm are left as expansion joint (even more if the skirting makes it possible). It is also recommended to check if the drying of the ground is correct and that the humidity is not very high in order not to use this intermediate expansion joint.
If we didn't have these factors under control, we could have an excess of expansion that together with the excess of square meters in continuous installation (without any joint) would cause lifting, curving, etc.
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